Thursday, September 21, 2006

Ponto


NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO 11 FT AT 12 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.

AKA South Carlsbad State Beach...

My training ground for surfing in Oregon from 1970 to 1981...
Not every day, but pretty damn close!
Also the approximate view from my bedroom window...
Waking at night to the thump of groundswell was good...

1 comments:

Chum said...

The lack of sleep must have been a bummer though.