Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Unruly


SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

Unruly...
Perhaps the best description for the surf yesterday...
There was lots of bull kelp whips and other debris floating about...
Swell wrapping enticingly off the crest of swirling, hard current...
Pushing, pulling and inviting the unwary into a pounding reality...
Sedimentary grit-filled upwellings staining the shifting takeoff zone...
Peaks threatening, only to back off in chaotic oceanic indecision...
My only memorable wave, a wedging, ledging, unpredictable right...
That shoved down the line in an expanding, fluctuating triangle...
Softness, followed by hardness framed with a border of froth...
When the bottom dropped out (and it did), the upper teeth bit hard...
Flipping my board into a twist of point, rail, skeg and tail...
That I emerged from unscathed, paddling back out for more...

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