Saturday, October 21, 2006

Drilled


NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING N 20 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
NW SWELL 8 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
DROPPING TO NW 7 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

The paddle out yesterday didn't look too bad...
As long as you timed it right...
The lineup was pretty far outside...
And most outside waves could be dealt with...

But the clean up sets were substantial...
And came relentlessly in the double digits...
All three of the surfers in the picture...
Were waiting outside for a set wave...

Only to be confounded by a wave that broke...
Hundreds of yards beyond the take off zone...
And followed by an equally ubfriendly train...
Driving them into the shallows by the end...


A wave previous to the drubbing depicted above...

1 comments:

pushingtide said...

Winter comin'!!!

Cool pics