Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 10 TO 15.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
NW SWELL 10 TO 12 FT AT 16 SECONDS.

A longer period would have helped today...
Some good looking waves rolling through...
Interspersed with long waits between sets...
And sets that would clean up the line up...

Saw far more missed waves and duckdives...
Than I did down the line slides...
Those waves that were caught...
Usually terminated in a massive close out...

The wind was on it by afternoon...
Looking lumpy and sparkly in the sun...
Checked a seldom ridden big wave spot...
Death defying rights closing out across the bay...