Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Old Friend


NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO N IN THE AFTERNOON.
GUSTS UP TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO W SWELL 5 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

Here's a post off the OSP 'October Surf Report' from Dub Star...

Spent the last few days visiting an old friend I hadn’t seen in 7 years. One late fall day he just split never to be seen again and sometime later I left town myself. I had heard through the grapevine he had been back, but only a few times and when I was around it was the longest he had ever stayed. During that time we became very close and I was left with great memories that lingered for 7 years.

Funny how some things never change. My old friend was exactly the way I remembered, ledging, hollow, and long. As I hopped off the reef for that first time and paddled over the kelpy rocks to meet the gloomy slabs, I sported an ear to ear perma grin though my hood. This was a moment I had waited on for a long time. I hung out exclusively with my old friend never to go more than 5 miles away and caught up on one of the most important things in my life, surfing. Pure surfing at it’s finest. Frontside and free! Snap after barrel after cuttie after turn with a tail slide mixed in for fun. After these long cold sessions I could only lay in my van lethargic, stoned, and blissed out as my dog licked the salt off my face.

After a year and a half living back in Oregon, I now feel that I am truly back. Thank you my friend for the good times. Life for me doesn’t get much better. I look very forward to the next time we meet again, my dearest of friends.


2 comments:

pushingtide said...

Cool words.

I love revisting a lost old friend. In fact, I hope to see some soon that I haven't talked to since early this year.

foul pete said...

i still don't understand that list. maybe i need to start watching more telly.