Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

SE WIND 15 TO 25 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 10 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
TONIGHT S WIND 25 TO 30 KT WITH GUSTS TO 35 KT.
RISING TO 30 TO 40 KT WITH GUSTS TO 45 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.
COMBINED SEAS 10 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO 16 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS AFTER MIDNIGHT.

Had Lewis and Clark made their expedition at a time of lower sea levels, their journey along the Columbia River could have take them to the edge of Astoria Canyon. However, their westward push stopped ten miles short at Fort Clatsop where the modern day mouth of the Columbia meets the Pacific Ocean.

Three-dimensional image Astoria Canyon looking southeast. The head of the canyon is to the left. ROPOS dive tracks are superimposed: blue, June 28; fuschia, June 29; green, June 30; white, July 1; red and black, July 2; and yellow, July 3. Relief is 400 - 500 meters from the top of the wall to the canyon bottom. The entire canyon is aproximately 120 km long "as the crow flies" and has an aproximate area of 1000 square km (using 8km as the average width).
~text from NOAA

Local Report:

Good surf today...lineup was pretty much maxed out at 5. Had a lot of time to myself. Surfed through a bloody nose after I tried to duck dive the 9'0". Longboarding is fun again; I was smiling the whole day. The sand[bars] have been changed from all the storms, but it looks like for the better.

The rip started flowing pretty strong, and it took a lot of paddling to stay in position. I ended the session exhausted. The most tired I've been after surfing in a long time. Once I got home I took a 3 hour nap.

Best memory from today: Taking a steep drop and looking down the face to see plenty of wave still to go before it would be time for a bottom turn.

Funniest moment: Dry hair paddle out to see the friend who had told me he wasn't going to be surfing today. Maybe if we didn't drink so much we'd have been out there earlier.