Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

S WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
NW SWELL 15 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
DROPPING TO NW SWELL 13 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

Yesterday I looked, but opted to stay dry. It was not surfable by any stretch of the imagination, nor as thick as this OB lip...but it was large, frothy and a side shore river on the inside...

Local Report:

...suited up...and walked down to the corner. I waded out, watched the set waves bombing outside, and noticed the butterflies in my stomach. I paddled out through the shore break, got under a couple of waves on the inside and started floating out in the rip...I easily made it outside, started looking for waves...I tried for a right, angled too far, didn’t quite get into it, and sat up on the ledge looking down in the pit while the windblown spray pelted my face. I wandered around some more and pulled out of a couple of lefts that I probably could have caught, but I wasn’t quite committed, yet.

I saw a decent right approaching, so I turned and paddled. I had to take a couple of extra strokes to huck myself over the ledge because of the offshore wind. I stood up in trim, made the bottom turn, raced down the line, and made a couple of top turns before kicking out. Hell yeah! I was able to paddle back around to the outside without going all the way in. A few minutes later, I caught another right, this one a beast. I looked at the nose of the board as I plunged into the pit and thought I was going to pearl. But instead, the pointed nose just skimmed the face and I bounced down into it. As I bottomed out, I looked up, but couldn’t see the top. I ran down the line again, but I was falling behind, and I realized I wasn’t going to make it out as the lip folded over. ...I kicked the board toward the open window, stepped off the back of the board, and took my beating. It wasn’t that bad and I was again able to paddle back around and out to the south. I was running out of time due to a work commitment, and the current seemed like it was really rushing out. I decided to try for one more, then call it a day. My third and final wave was a smaller but steeper left. I caught it, grabbed rail for the turn, then rode it for awhile before I straightened out and rode prone through the shore break.