NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
WIND WAVES 2 FT.
W SWELL 6 FT AT13 SECONDS.
Packed the car up last night. Checking the forecast, it looked like the swell was dropping hard...so I squeezed the 9'6" in too. Arrived earlier than I planned so took a look at a couple spots since I didn't have to work til 10:30. The first couple breaks were closing out a bit, but the third was looking really solid...head high and peeling left and right. Checking the time I sw I had an hour so I quickly changed and paddled out. Getting out was pretty easy, but the waves were racier than I thought and pulling in backside got swallowed up my first two waves. But the third right opened up and then walled up for a fun, but short ride. Caught a couple more waves, both lefts, that were to fast to make...so it was a 1 for 5 kinda morning. It was all I could squeeze in given short time frame.
Finished up work at about noon and thought about heading back to the same spot, but the tide was going out and I knew it wouldn't be working the same. There were a few other peaks I knew would be firing but they were south and I needed to go north. Checked a few spots that had some takers, but looked pretty average and definitely smaller..."Good call in the longboard ", I thought. Kept heading up the coast and opted for a a spot off a big haystack. I couldn't see the peak I was gonna surf and I grabbed the longboard in anticipation of smalle waves. When I got down to the beach it looked alot bigger than I had expected. I thought about going back up to switch boards, but was too lazy and didn't want to waste the time...mistake.
Made it out fine, despite some pretty solid bombs. Set up just outside the dissipating foam of the last wave and waited...and waited...and waited. Naturally, I slowly inched in since no waaves were coming through...mistake. A head high wave came in and I paddled for it and missed. Turning around I saw peaks freight training towards me and I turned and scratched. Having the LB now was an advantage as I was able to scrape over the shoulders of the first two, only to be confronted by a feathering face about 20 yards out that detonated right in front of me. I actually held on to my board, but then took a few more on the head and experienced the rest of the set up close and personal.
It finally let up and again the ocean was calm and inviting. So I paddled back out and set up a bit further out and waited. A right appeared and jumped as it felt the bottom, very fast and a bit bumpy. I hadn't been on the 9'6" since the end of summer and it felt pretty fun but definitely not the board for the waves. Caught a few more that weren't much more than quick drops and close outs requiring a fast exit. Again a long lull made me wait, but I stayed in position not wanting to get caught inside. The waves showed and I moved out a bit, letting the first couple pass. I turned on the third and paddled hard...it was a nice lined up left, just over head and "Wave of the day" I thought. I thought wrong. It jacked up and I stood to make the drop...I didn't really count on the additional 2 feet of board and watched as I cranked off the bottom (tried to crank off the bottom, rather), those 2 feet of nose bury themselves in the trough and launch me into the pit.
I got worked, and then the set from Neptune arrived to drive me to shore. I tried for about 20 minutes to work my way back out, not wanting to end on a wipeout...but it wasn't meant to be. I finally admitted defeat and headed in. I took a few pics and relaxed in the January sun. So, it wasn't as bad as it sounds...but the afternoon surf was definitely lumpy and weird, lotsa crossed up swell making the waves do odd things.
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