Monday, January 15, 2007

Peace


SE WIND 15 TO 20 KT...
WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT NEAR COASTAL GAPS IN THE MORNING.
WIND WAVES 4 FT...
SUBSIDING TO 2 FTIN THE AFTERNOON.
W SWELL 6 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

The inimitable Montgomery "Buttons" Kaluhiokalani...photo by Jeff Divine
~
Local report from Dub:

3 day run.

6 @ 20 had me frothing as I drove over the frozen Coast Range passes, looking more like the Cascades than the Coast Range. 6 @ 20, a magic number for me, but that's a whole other story in another place south. NE winds, so I made a left and found solid swell, perfect offshores, but no sand bars. I did find solid snowpack and ice on the 101! Ended up at an usual as I was over the road conditions and had lost hope in searching some of my other haunts further south. Grabbed the fish (my old one) when I hoped to grab my semi, sucked it up and hiked down on a snow covered trail. Solid energy with no bars to really focus on and really this spot is never that good on a long period anyway, but given the right place and the right time a decent wave could be had.

The session was just another reminder of Oregon surf, everything could look perfect and still be pretty much shit. 8 @ 17 + or - the next 2 days with winds switching to SE and then E. Spent Sat morning checking a couple spots, but knowing there's only one winter spot that's reliable this time of year and that's where I ended up. Bounced around from wave to wave as all 3 were working.

The locals opted for a different one than normal, so I let the rip take me all the way out. Real nice is all I can say, but not perfect and probably why I found my window. Yesterday morning, 26 degrees with a hefty wind chill from the east winds. Pulled in pre-dawn and in the water with no hesitation. To my surprise several others had the same idea and motivation I did despite the arctic conditions. People are hungry right now and it was just about perfect. That's all I can say. Caught my 5 wave quota and got the hell out of dodge as people were amping and attitudes would sure be flaring.

As for the snow, it was amazing to see. Old timers were saying they had never seen anything like it. There was close to a foot at a friend's place who lives on a hill overlooking the bay. It's just not going anywhere as the continued cold temps are keeping it intact on the north facing slopes. My motto was take it slow. Coastal towns were transformed into Mountain towns. Great to see, but quickly getting tired of the cold. Looks like more cold surf on tap. Guess I'll be back.

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