.jpg)
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
...went out and surfed with my Dad and cousin today. Checked a spot my cuz had recently stumbled upon during a long hike along the north coast (for the record, by stumbled upon, I mean we had though it could be surfable before....he was the first one to see it with the proper conditions). The take off is really simple - a wide zone that doesn't steepen very quick; in fact my Dad was in on the wave really early on his longboard. A couple seconds after you take off the peak kind of mushes down the face, and the wave starts reeling, not too fast, but you don't want to dink around or you will get caught behind the lip. If you don't botch it to this point, (and you have to try hard to botch it), the wave just opens up all of a sudden. It just starts pitching over you section after section. I'm terrible at pulling into the green room, but you can literally just sit mid-face on the wave and let the lip fly over you, it's beautiful. And if you aren't into the whole barrel thing [!!!], you can just carve up and down forever. Anyway, being just us three we surfed for two hours and were exhausted. The rides were pretty long, all the way into the closeout right before you hit dry sand. All the patience has finally paid off. Its amazing to see what happens if you pursue your dreams/fantasies and they actually come true. All my hope for finding more new breaks is restored. I'm stoked again. Its sweet.
~lappis
Wow! Two days in a row...bitter cold...sat around the corner...swell bringing head high roping lefts every 10 mins...tried to maintain position at the end peak, but the current was ebbing strongly...got a couple, then my hands started to go numb...a few sets broke outta reach...got a few more shorter rides...the east wind started to hack at the peak...went in, kept the suit on, heated up...checked the other peaks, negative...went back, a little more glassy...tide a little more slack...nice left lines...stood on the rocks too long, started to shiver...went home sunday morning, opted for pre game festivities...after the disappointing finish made the call to the usual spot to wash the season away...late afternoon perfection...flawless 16 sec swell...not a cloud in the sky...slightly overhead sets, ocassional 200 yard walls that would take 15 minutes to cycle back...the lineup coulda used a few more waves before dark descended, but the ones that were had were fablously lined up and powerful...got the biggest and best ride as the sun dissappeared...racing from the takeoff 50 yards and wacking the top three times in rapid succession as the wave wound up for another long section...got around and was too spent to lay into it, but rode the whitewater inside as my hands started to hurt...could barely get the fly zip off...my fingers seemed frostbitten headed home with the heaters full blast.
~pro moe
I went to ********** where the only way out was to hike to the tip of the cape. Then with a running head start you jump off the one hundred fifty foot cliff, timed so that you land in the water just as the water surge is going out. It should also be noted that the only way to clear the rocks is to use your board like a wing which also slows you down for impact against the water. After killing one, two, possibly eight sharks on the way to a perfect hard-bottomed point break, a cleanup set started coming in, which was perfect 'cause I was already way outside peepin' the set up. So I air dropped into my bottom turn and eased into a spitting stand up barrel when the Mother of all the sharks I had recently slaughtered, attempted aerial vengeance, but failed and in doing such, I was tubed by her which brings my standupbarrelbyashark count to five. No biggy, but a lurching shadow and her dorsals' last three inches of her 29 were closing in on me. I proceeded to do what anyone else would do and performed a roundhouse not seen since Maverick from Top Gun placed himself behind the Mig-29 while trying to save Goose. Instead of botching it like Maverick though, I made my line high on the wave paralell with the beast when my sixth sense told me it was time to cut back, and cut I did. Coming straight down the wave I sliced her from gill to gill with my fins as I dexteriously reached into the center slice and grabbed her still pumping heart. The shadow of her carcass faded as it sunk to be claimed by Poseidon. Finally, with all that out of the way, I was able to enjoy the rest of the wave with out interruption, except; for maybe a pleasant midwave snack.
~pra
This kind of stuff is pretty run of the mill...killing monster sharks with your bare hands (and skegs)...jumping off ragged capes into rock strewn lineups...sneaking past scout masters into mysto point breaks...basic Surf in Oregon.
0 comments:
Post a Comment