Thursday, January 25, 2007


SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT.
I see many surfers approach waves as a sort of conquest. Much of the vocabulary is violent and aggressive...bash, slash, tear and gouge. Perhaps it is a level of maturity or understanding of self and how we fit into the universe...(if you can ever truly understand what that means fully)...and more specifically, how we fit into, and utilize, this small, wonderful aspect of the universe and our planet...waves.
We are incredibly small riders tapping into something of massive, pulsing scale. Many surfer's attitude towards the ocean, land and nature itself, is as sadly unenlightened as any other person. But participation and protection of these resources, not just surf related resources, is paramount to our survival; especially in the face of our own ability as a natural force to alter the face of the planet, it's systems and habitats.
Our actions, despite our seemingly individual meaninglessness, have an ever increasing capacity to act in conservation or towards destruction...intentional or not. As a part of nature, any activities that reduce the planet are reductions of our own existence. Loss of a breaking wave, a species or even of simple recognition of our personal responsibility to nature reduces the very richness of our existence.
The changes occurring today, in our small world, require a renewed committment to, and recognition of, the value of nature in all it's forms...the oceans, lands and lifeforms that are teetering on the brink. We, as people, have in many ways proven our mastery of nature...but our understanding of the consequences of this mastery remains unknown. Our abilities, intelligence and power as a whole now need to be turned towards another conquest...mastery of ourselves, our needs and desires.