Sunday, February 25, 2007

Alive


S WIND 25 KT.
WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 19 TO 21 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
~
For some surfers...
Energy, stoke and vigor...
Keep them diligently in the search...
The waves are always doable...
The wind isn't too bad...
The swell angle seems to be working...
The crowds (or lack of them)...
Driving, sideways rain...
Even throbbing hangovers...
Don't seem to matter...
Struggling into icy cold wetsuits...
Dealing with stinking booties...
Inevitable sand infiltration...
Into every aspect of their lives...
Doesn't seem to bother them...
Sessions in the morning...
Sessions in the afternoon...
Sessions in the evening...
All hold equal allure...
Dawn patrols surfed...
In the the shadows of headlands...
Midday beachies with stiff offshores...
That blow you out the back...
Crystalline late sessions where...
The glare of the sun...
Sears eyeballs out of sockets...
All have their rewards...
The sun has set?...
They'll probably paddle out...
For just a couple more...
Long hikes in...
Scrambles down muddy cliffside trails...
Pulling into beachside lots...
Aren't determining factors...
Whether riding tiny ripples...
perfect head high peelers...
Or double over head death bombs...
That make hearts skip beats...
All are reason for celebration and utilization...
Two waves or twenty...
Equals a satisfying session...
Whether you've surfed two years or twenty...
Also doesn't matter...
Two minute walks...
Or twenty mile drives...
Both take us to the same place...
As Thoreau said...
"To be awake is to be alive"...
And there is nothing...
That awakens the soul...
Thrills the senses...
Nor makes a surfer know...
They are living "the life"...
Than surfing.

2 comments:

Chum said...

You pretty much summarized our whole weekend. Well said!

pushingtide said...

Fuck yeah! Great stokin' post. Man.... Even had a Thoreau quote thrown in. Hope you keep gettin' the goods Doc.