S WIND 15 TO 20 KT.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
W SWELL 12 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
~
Existence is the wave I surf upon...
I slide upon it, and while I slide...
I do not see the sandy bottom...
But can sense how shallow it is...
Boils and eddies indicate hard realities...
To be utilized for their power...
But direct contact is to be avoided...
Multiple currents pull this way and that...
Which one grips hardest is undetermined...
In the end, all currents lead back...
To the spot of origin...
As I slide ever steeper...
Going ever deeper...
In a spinning eye...
Its walls are dimpled...
With liquid texture...
That never moves...
I can never hold it in my hand...
Nor gaze upon it in pure contemplation...
For every aspect is ever in motion...
In this place...
Letters, numbers and language don't matter...
Only color, sensation and emotion have meaning...
Upon exit, it is as though you've been renewed...
But purity and innocence is lost...
Replaced by knowledge and time...
When you step from water to land.
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