Sunday, February 04, 2007

Surfing


SE WIND 10 KT.
WIND WAVES 1 FOOT.
W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.


Once upon a time, the act of surfing was reserved only for kings. Today, even common folk may also ride the waves. To surf on waves, one need not be of royal blood or even be a local, adherence to a predetermined craft or style is no longer required; one only need the means and drive to ride the swell.
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Due to this somewhat recent adjustment of surfing rules, any kook or val or serf may claim: "Dude...check out those waves!"...and then go surf them. This may be seen as progress or as regression; and where some may welcome and rejoice at this leveling, others will gnash their teeth and rent their clothes in seething anger. Clearly, sometimes it's good to be king...or at least a core local.
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If your stoke is strong and the surf is up, there may well be many waves in your future. Frustration and struggle are surely in your future. Even after a short time, as you lay upon your surfboard, and gaze upon the undulating horizon in anticipation, you may find peace and bliss and harmony. With dedication to the art, you may even discover the meaning of soul.
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The kings used to have surfing interlopers put to death; now the penalties are generally limited to milder stern frowns, maybe some stink eye, and a bad vibe or two. Occassionally, a rock may fly or a deer head may be left upon your porch...but these are rare occurences.
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This sage advice has been offered on more than one occassion: Tread lightly, show respect and know your place in the lineup. I would add this: Speak neither too much, nor too little, lest you raise interest or suspicion...and the waves upon which you are now looking may yet remain unchanged.

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