Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

TONIGHT W WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 9 SECONDS...BUILDING TO 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Back in the water this AM...fun chest to head high peaks provided a much needed wave fix. I was happy the waves weren't too heavy, I was like a kitten paddling strength-wise. On my first wave...I was convinced that I had, in fact, forgotten how to surf. Fortunately, the next few proved that I could still turn a surfboard.

The day...drove for couple hours, surfed for a couple hours, went to work for a couple hours, reconned for a couple hours, surfed again for a couple hours, drove for a couple hours...I think I'll go to bed in a couple hours...

The second session was a luck-in...reconning a couple spots, nothing was working. Saw an spot from far away, across a bay, over a dune just peeling in the far distance...the spot requires alot of effort to get to...a long beach hike or a long open water paddle. It would have taken a couple hours to get to it so I opted to check another spot that, while not as perfect looking as the previous peak, was offering up head high left hand grinders...there was no one out...then 2, then 3, then 5, then me. Caught a handful and called it a day...a very good day.

Now I won't go home and kick the dog, yell at the kids and argue with my wife...like I have been for the past few days...

Local report:

Glassy head high peaks, maybe 20 people spread out. Sweet drops on the outgoing tide. Newbie longboarder thought he had it going on in the cove, but it was better down the beach. ~gaz

[xxxxx] was glassier, fast and hollow, but you had to get the hell out of the way of the lip when the whole thing detonated on the inside sandbar in 18 inches of water. Saw very few folks make the kick out-- though one...had a fabulous, gymnasticsesque kick out where he just barely made [it] off the back and scrambled as he was being sucked over the falls. Didn't know people's legs could bend that way. The other place was crowded with people I knew and kind of wobbly, but it peeled better and you could make the wave and then take the channel out. I left wanting more--- ~gills

The beach break was better...faster, stronger, empty...at least early, it probably didn't hold up later. And there were plenty of makable wedges...and unmakeable, I got both...and it was plenty deep, I never hit bottom...and I made several unplanned searches for it. The overhead detonation is the fun part...and most painful....and the paddle out was mild even for my "out of the water a month" arms...channel schmannel. The warbly, mushy, crowded wave?...ok for longboarding for sure...but there were sure a load of bobbers out there. Maybe if I hadn't posted all those reports last year... ~doc