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W WIND 10 TO 15 KT...VEERING TO NW IN THE AFTERNOON.WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 9 SECONDS... BUILDING TO 9 FT AT 10 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
Not a 100% sure, but this sure looks like a sequence of Reno Abellira from "Morning of the Earth". His 1974 Smirnoff win at maxed out Waimea Bay is still considered one of the most awesome, terrifying surfing competition ever held. In 1975, Abellira brought a standup version of the twin fin Lis Fish to Australia for the Coke Contest in Sydney, an import of design that is considered to have inspired the twin-fin era and Mark Richards' following dominance on the fledgling pro tour. Along with Gerry Lopez, Reno was a Dick Brewer protege; he was a classic stylist of the early pro era, producing flamboyant performances in waves from two to twenty feet.
3 comments:
stylin' image.
Very stylin. Small boards rule!
Got some Oregon surf for the fist time in a month, not that I haven't been surfing, but that's another report. While Tues did not look like it was going to be all that great it turned out to be the best of the 2 days. Small but nicely shaped rights mid morning, dredging head to overhead lefts in the afternoon evening. The 5 went from 3 to 4 to 2 of us till sunset and managed to get one of those long ones that made the sesh. Glad I waited it out and I guess you were out there Doc?
Spring conditions yesterday, but nothing really working that well at the spring time usualls. Tide, sand, swell? Keep looking the bars are out there, but didn't put the effort into finding or driving to them yesterday. Shoulda made the paddle at the days prior local as conditions were right, but settled for junk that could of been better later. Who knows, a couple conclusions I came to were spring is here and 5 mill wetsuits are restricting. Oh yeah, cold - fickle - sharky as well.
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