Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

E WIND 10 TO 15 KT...VEERING TO S. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W 6 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Pulled up to the break at 9:30...there were only a few out in the cove...and a couple hardy souls braving the beach break...mostly without great success. But it was about an hour shy of high tide, which I had on good authority was when it would start firing...as a friend of mine described those out early..."Those are the people with bad timing." Another friend opted to head north to check a protected spot that I told him was working on Tuesday...and another was hunting an elusive spot that he thought might be on...we'll see.

Paddled out at high tide, it was pretty solid, head high sets coming through, all rights...backside peelers. The first wave I paddled for...way oversized on a 9'6" downrailer singlefin...I was too deep, the bottom dropped out and I basically free fell as the skeg came free. I realized that I picked the wrong day to surf a longboard for the first time since fall, but made the best of it. Sat down the line and watched the shortboarders get gobbled up, (more often than not), by the whitewater and then picked off the inside walls all the way to the inside...over and over again.

Now, finishing up part one of my workday...and heading back down to see how low tide is looking...good, I hope.

Local Report:

Rode head high glassy peelers on the north coast today. Still enough juice to rip my booties off. ~dtl