W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
It doesn't really matter what side you're on...
Whether you're the one that just made the drop...
The one that came swinging hard off the bottom...
Ready to set your line or come up off the top...
It doesn't really matter if you're the one paddling out...
Whether you have to duck dive or glide...
Up the face and over the top of the wave...
Gazing back through the spray for a look...
It doesn't really matter if it's a good friend...
An aquaintance or someone you don't evenknow...
Sometimes there's that brief glance...
Where it doesn't really matter...
Whether you're the rider or the viewer...
You both share the experience of the wave.
Local Report:
Head high fun on the incoming tide, the wind laid off and it cleaned up. ...got waves and sun all in the same day. Mellow crew in the water........none of them were you bastards............ well, except there was one.* ~gaz
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