UPDATED FORECAST 4-18 - FIRST DECENT SOUTH OF THE SEASON
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Early season south swell showing strong this morning and will peak later
today. So Cal deepwater a solid 4.5@17 from around 185-190 - Nor Cal is
3-4@1...
6 hours ago
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3 comments:
In case you were wondering Doc & Co. Got out for the last few hours yesterday eve and the first few hours this morning. Light NW wind and some decent power comming though yesterday avro, but wave shape hit or miss. More closing out, but at least they had some juice. Paddled into sucking wedge where the bottom dropped out on me and my ultra light epoxy quad blew out from under my feet the instant I was airborne. Free fell jumping away from board, hit the water and just got drilled, eventually meeting up with my board again under water smashing elbow against it. Basically a big fuck you from Mother Ocean. Surfed a different spot at dawn, very light offshore puff draining out of the coastal canyons and very nice waves. Oh yeah! Back in cube land sore and tired by 10ish just in time for another pointless meeting.
Pointless meetings are an excellent counterpoint to proper recognition of fun waves...
And, yes...always wondering.
Hi-
Love this picture!
PJ
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