Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Popping Through


NW WIND 30 TO 35 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT...EXCEPT SW 25 KT NEAR SHORE EARLY THIS MORNING. COMBINED SEAS 13 TO 15 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 11 SECONDS.
A part of surfing that doesn't carry nearly the thrill or excitement of tube ride or solid bottom turn...but an intrinsic part nonetheless. As a bodysurfer (not frequently in Oregon), in big surf you could use the waves energy to eject yourself out the backs of big waves; often clearing your whole body.
When done correctly, ducking through a wave at the last second will propel you smoothly out the back; done incorrectly (or simply getting caught in a vortex of swirling doom) and you suffer the sickening underwater sensation a sucking direction change followed by an often violent and turbulent thrashing (depending on wave size).
Local Report:
How about 20' faces in the shorebreak, slamming into the cliffs? 15' screaming walls a mile out when the tide flipped? Still counted 31 whales, at least I think they were whales. ~tfd

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

that looks like a small black dog popping through the back of a wave!
Is it?

Gaz said...

Doc, I think duck diving is an artform and given short shrift by and large. Getting it just right under the lip of some monster and squeezed out the back like a wet seed between thumb and forefinger, is a blissful feeling.

Doc said...

Agreed...and that may well be a small black dog...

lawless said...

I would guess it's possibly a Schnauzer or large pekingese...

He's got skills though, most dogs I see surfing are just riding the whitewater on a longboard. Cudos to our 4-footed friend for stepping it up a notch.

warm jet said...

How bout that moment when you've popped through without enough momentum and very slowly your dragged into the aftermath of foam and then wasted by the next three.

JP said...

That is the craziest surf photo I have ever seen!