Sunday, March 11, 2007

Slab


S WIND 30 TO 35 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT. COMBINED SEAS 16 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 11 SECONDS.
This sequence was care of A-Frame Magazine, a body boarding mag...but I'll overlook that shortcoming. I'll admit it, I'm a surfist. I don't really have a problem with bodyboards per se (kayaks in the surf is another story), but I can't understand why they wouldn't want to get a board they can stand up on. There are some great shots in this e-zine and excellent production values from what I can see.
But enough of that, the wave is an aberation. It has been surfed, but to my knowledge primarily via tow. Paddling into this wave would be high risk as it drives onto an very shallow reef...if you don't make it, you take it...on the head.

2 comments:

Gazelle said...

Honestly, I don't like bodyboarders OR kayakers in the lineup. At some breaks bodyboarders swarm and take off all around surfers, getting in the way and in some cases catching waves more quickly due to swim fin power. On the other hand, I was a bodyboarder/bodysurfer before I learned to stand up and some waves are a complete thrill to ride on the belly, seemingly designed for it. I can remember bodysurfing and bodyboarding a number of ledgy, wedgy breaks that would have been next to impossible (at least for me) to stand up surf. It's a unique rush bouncing around deep in a barrel, so close to the shallow sandy bottom.

JP said...

Thanks for the surfy surfy button, those look killer!