Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

Although I'm not this far gone...storms, injury, storm, 20+ foot swell, illness, storms, injury, storms, work, storms...and (did I mention?) storms; have all conspired to keep me high and dry for coming up on a month now...Aside from some January magic, it's been kind of a rough Surf in Oregon winter. I'm hoping spring has something better on tap.

Checked out a couple spots yesterday and was pretty much expecting what I found...sloppy, onshore and overhead. There was an occasional reeler that would roll through, but staying in position against the visible sideshore current would have probably been next to impossible.

Local Report:

...shot out to a n coast spot to try to score some on a day when predictions looked dim. After getting nothing in the center of this spot I paddled over to catch the break that was working pretty well. LOOOOOOOONG lefts, killer rides. I got greedy and decided to take the glory ride. Unfortunate, as I straightened out by mistake it drove me into the shore. I found myself getting bounced off the boulder ridden bottom. My @ss got a knot and a raspberry, my leg went numb and then I got worked a second time. Payment made to mother ocean for getting greedy. Well worth the price. ~nash