SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT...VEERING TO W IN THE AFTERNOON.WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Yesterday Report...Pic from another day...same place:
It was...
Lumpy and disheveled with periods of putridity...
But pretty big on the outside sets...
I was the only one out on a 9'6" and sitting well outside the pack...
And watched them get cleaned out on more than one occasion...
It was a little over head high...
But plenty of disturbing, shifty power...
I picked off my first tester wave...
Quickly got out of it and scrambled back outside...
Not wanting to test my inability to duckdive over 9 feet of foam...
The second wave was a fun one but still looking over the shoulder...
The third went top to bottom and I got absolutely rogered...
Not enough rocker and not far enough back...
Spun underwater far too long...
Then rising to the surface sucked back down again until I hit bottom...
Definite un-fun-ness...
Paddled back out and had to to readjust my wetsuit and boot that had nearly been pulled off... Then proceeded to pick off a few intermittently...
Between scratching for the horizon...
Or being suckered into trying for unmakables...
That made you look quickly back in an "Oh F@#k Me" moment.
Local Report:
Big dodgy peaks
West with a touch of south
Indicators firing smoke signals.
Steep drops over bumps.
Paddle out through toilet bowl hell.
Some made it some didn't.
South to north rip
scared surfers
Orange bird would have had some to pluck.
Without luck.
Screamers all afternoon.*
~gaz
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2 comments:
That's basically what it looked like at 7:45pm. When I was outside all by myself. Except that it wasn't as clean. And a set rolled through that was bigger, scarier, and barely makeable over the lip as the whole thing came down like an avalanche.
Oh yeah - and it was cool to finally put a face to a name yesterday!
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