VARIABLE WINDS 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT INTHE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 10 TO 11 FT AT 17 SECONDS.
When the waves get good...even the boards go looking.
It's good to be persistent...sometimes persistence can border on stupidity...
That's not good.
I was looking at some quotes about persistence the other day...
And I pondered their application towards the practice of Surf In Oregon...
So in SIO tradition...
I appropriated and altered them to my own narrow and specific need:
From Albert Camus, my favorite fatalistic author/philosopher:
Waves that don't kill you make you stronger.
From a Buddhist proverb, and who can't appreciate the persistence of Buddhism?...
When the surfer is ready, the wave appears.
And after J.R.R. Tolkien, another pretty accomplished writer...
Around every headland there may be, a new break or a secret spot.
Local Report:
Big and messy, lumpy and bumpy.........2x overhead sets were not in short supply either, and ass kickings were a dime a dozen.
~gaz
1 comments:
Doc, how about this one from David Copperfield:
"To begin my life with the beginning of my life, I record that I became a surfer on a Friday, at twelve o'clock at night."
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