Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Contrary Secondary


SW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT...BECOMING W 10TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING TO 1 FOOT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 9 FT AT 15 SECONDS. SECONDARY SWELL SW 7 FT AT 20 SECONDS.
Things are not looking so hot this week. Pretty much contrary winds, from contrary directions, hitting a contrary swell with a contrary period. Although the secondary 7 foot SW at 20 seconds is looking excellent...
In any case, I have my doubts about getting wet this week...doesn't mean I won't go looking. I'm nothing if not persistent...sometimes stupidly so...some more adapted surf quotes:
In the face of each difficult section lies opportunity. ~after Einstein
Life is short, you must surf. ~after a Thai proverb...that Thai philosopher clearly didn't Surf In Oregon...
Local Report:
...I am finally learning that Oregon can't handle groundswell. Monday looked to be beautiful, sunny, solid 8-10 ft...what?...every 15 sec? What would be a sick 4-6 ft (hawaiian) was 100 yards of white water and closeouts from PC to Newport.
~scratchy
Funny, I surfed 2x plus all day in the spots you mentioned...I should add, a good friend of mine who sees perfection most of the time was shaking his head in disbelief. For every good wave I found I spent a great deal of time under water. I'm not trying to clown anyone, but there were waves to be had...you just had to really really want them and know how to get um. At times, the pucker factor was very high.
~sooloo

2 comments:

Patch said...

Doc,

Great idea. Here's my feeble attempt at the proverbs.

All's well that has swell.

The best waves in life aren't empty.

The swell is always cleaner on the other side of the point.

A board in hand is worth two on the rack.

Don't judge a board by it's wax job.

It takes two to tandem.

There's no fool like a sponger. (just kidding)

Dub Resurrected said...

Just got back from Florida and haven't surfed Oregon waters since Easter weekend, which left it on a very very good note for me. Doesn't look like I've missed much, but now I'm ready to get some and DAM it's looking solid. 7@20! with another 15 second swell in the water. That some solid winter-fall shit right there, but then again I don't know many spots that hold that kind of swell especially with a west wind or what's predicted for the weekend. Where's Spring and those 7@13's?