Monday, April 02, 2007

Twain


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Looks like another typical stormy day in Oregon...sans rubber, of course...you got the guy that stands up before he's in the wave...the assorted bobbing buoy sorts in the impact zone...shorebound beginners practicing their popups and style...and the cluelessly doomed standing on the rocks ready to be swept off, in and away.
Mark Twain on Surfing...from "Roughing It":
In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf- bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea (taking a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell! It did not seem that a lightning express-train could shoot along at a more hair-lifting speed. I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the connection myself. The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me. None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing thoroughly.
Sounds like ol' Mark got kinda worked...kooked out...ate sand.
While the locals (aka "Natives") scored heavily...connected the dots...shot the curl.
Local Report:
(It's kinda outta date...from last week...Tuesday I think...the names have been changed to protect the protective)
I checked Indicators (Oregon's version) today...
I got up early and went to Sand Spit...
Some friends of mine surfed a mysto break on the Island of Santosha...
I knew they would...
They got it, but it was no "Winter of '69'" at Windansea...
I saw Pat Curren sleeping in his car at Waimea...
Pipeline wasn't really firing...
So I headed over to Steamer Lane...
More onshore slop...
I drove on the beach at Daytona...
Let me tell you Florida sucked today...
Closeouts on the inner bar...
So I headed into work in Lincoln City...
Then checked Jaws...
Indicators again...
And Sand Spit...
If anything, they sucked even worse...
There wasn't even anyone out at Indicators...
On the first day of Spring Break too!
I thought about checking Santosha myself...
But I didn't have time...
So I cut inland and swung by Mundaka...
It actually was working but the tide was too low...
And I thought that Shark Island would be better so I checked that...
No luck...
I finally hiked into Black's...
It was horrible...
Disorganized, low tide wind blown slop...
I might as well have been in Oregon!
So I went to the old standby...
I pulled up to Nocnir...
And wouldn't you know it...
There were actually a few waves coming through...
It only took me 6 hours and 150 miles of driving to find it...
I paddled out...
I didn't shred, or rip, or gouge or throw buckets...
I didn't get tubed, or get a nose ride or an off the lip...
I didn't hassle, or jockey or give or get any stinkeye...
No rocks were thrown, no windows waxed, no vibing was done...
I paddled out and picked off a 1/2 dozen waist to chest high waves...
Nothing fancy, just paddle, drop and go down the line...
It was racy, but pretty gutless, especially the left...
When I was done I called Kelly Slater...
"Slats!" I said...
"Did you and Machado do Santosha this morning?"
"Yeah..." he answered...
"How was it?" I asked...
"Not as good as last time", he replied...
"Where were you?" he asked...
"Nocnir". I answered...
"Yeah, I figgered Nocnir might be the only place the wind wasn't on it" he said...
He was soooooo right.
~doc

2 comments:

pushingtide said...

Super cool post Doc.

Surf bathing should have been more fun today.

Dub Resurrected said...

Tomorrow's looking better than is has in a long time for the majority of the coast. Fallesqe period. Hum? Cough, cough, sneeze, sneeze.......