Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Howzit?


THIS EVENING N WIND 10 TO 15 KT... EASING TO 5 TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
It was a little bigger and windier this morning...and there was stiff north wind that made it hard to walk with your board this afternoon.
Fortunately, I was surfing a southwest facing beach which meant it was blowing mostly offshore and holding up the somewhat weak lefts fairly nicely.
There were quite a few folks out...mostly due to the sunny and small conditions...but only a handful that could surf...or paddle their boards for that matter...many squatting style rides, slow stomach to knee to upright popups and many, many purls and inexplicable wipeouts.
I also heard lots of hooting...the enthusiasm is admirable perhaps, but a knee-high straight-in ride hardly warrants it...I also saw alot of "run to the surf" guys that were in way too big a hurry to get out to tiny waves with the wrong board...Merricks, Rustys and other potato chip pro boards have their place...just not with people that can't surf yet...glad I was on 9'6"!
In any case, it was only about waist high and semi-empty...which meant another leashless go out...I did lose my board on a couple occassions, which promted bewildered queries of if I had broken my leash.
Got lots of waves...again pretty gutless, especially on the outside...it would show nicely, then break and mush out and disappear out on the inside. After a few of these I moved inside and rode the walling waist-high reforms breaking in waist-deep water all by my lonesome.
Heading out, I passed several groups heading in...some kept mum, but there was the occassional "How is it?"...asked with a hope and intensity that simply did not match the rented softtop cradled awkwardly under their arm...

1 comments:

fojo said...

I love the innocence and ignorance that is a regular part of Oregon surfing. Newbies are embarrassing, but they haven't learned to judge and they are genuine in what they do. They don't yet know they're part of the game.

It was bliss.