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Friday, May 04, 2007
VARIABLE WIND 5 KT EARLY...BECOMING S TO SE 5 TO 10 KT DURING THE MORNING. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Sometimes I dream about surf, waves, surfing, the beach or even a specific wave...usually though, the dreams aren't so dreamy... they're about everything but surfing...the struggle to get in the water...the light fading...endless delays until it's too late...no surf for you!
But although I have never dreamed about this wave...just looking at it makes me wonder why not?...it's in the fading light...the bumps and warble to it threaten to disrupt perfection...yet the potential for the goods is right there...
When the dreams about surf do come...inevitably they're right before waking...and I want nothing more than to leave the waking world and dive back into the dream...sometimes you make it...sometimes you don't...alot like surfing I suppose...in a dream though you can stay in the barrel as long as you want...and you can surf well beyond your ability...and hell, in surf dreams, this wave might be reeling right off your front porch.
These dreamy wave shots are from photographer Trent Mitchell...check him out.Local Report:
...died down a bit and everyone got out. My buddy and I stuck around, moved inside and waited it out, the left just north of chambers started working. Waist to chest high and tons of fun. Rode it way past dark, got out of the water at 9:30, Think we did the 'just 1 more wave' routine 6 or 7 times. ~brisco
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2 comments:
Thanks for posting the link to Trent's website - it's inspiring work.
ah what a lovely wave, and a lovely link! Thanks. Jackie the Salp (Seaside OR)
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