Sunday, May 06, 2007

All Time


S WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
This is one of my all time favorite surfshots...I don't know why, but the shot reminds me of BK...it seems to combine style elements of that transition period between Hotcurl hotdogging and Malibu hotdogging...a time when the rider echoed and interacted with what the wave provided rather than imposing human will and action onto the wave's surface...that's progress.

0 comments: