NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
It was windier than that...and the swell was smaller than that...at least where I was. There were definitely some bigger peaks coming in down the beach a ways...but getting to them...and leaving the wind protection of the cape...would have been foolish...not to mention the cooler of beer on the beach.
I don't usually get my fill of surf...usually something else causes the end of a session...work, family, wind, tide change, alcohol...so it's pretty nice when after about four hours in the water...you wrap it up because you're roasted by the sun...your lungs are burning after paddling out...and your arms are noodling...not to mention the cooler of beer on the beach.
Last time out I brought the wrong board...a pintail thruster that wasn't suited to the smaller than expected waves...won't get fooled again...brought two boards today...and the 9'6" was the board for the smaller than expected waves...again...today...waist to chest high and some fun rights with an occasional left...lotsa friends...little work...not to mention the cooler of beer on the beach.
Local Report:
When I arrived around 8:30 yesterday there were already 10 faces in the water and the waves were shoulder to head high on the sets. There was almost no wind and the waves had excellent shape. Sets were coming in 3's or 4's followed by short luls. Everyone was friendly and polite, it was warm and sunny and the rip was working. Mostly LB's and fishies though a shortboarder or two were also making it work. ~tatonka
0 comments:
Post a Comment