Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Wrong Wayv


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT EXCEPT S WIND 10 TO 15 KT NEARSHORE. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.


Pretty much no luck today...got down early only to find bumpy, tiny, sloppy nothingness...it was almost an anti-wave...a nega-wave...a wrong wayv
Y'know? I remember when a 5 foot swell at 10 seconds actually meant something! Things have changed...you've heard of Hawaiian scale, right? That's where a head high wave is called 2 or 3 foot. Well, Oregon scale apparently is just the opposite...a 5 foot wave is actually 1 or 2 foot.
Local Report:
I watched HV8 for about 5 minutes and headed north... Checked a spot that looked alot better than PC...well a little better anyway...headed north... Watched another spot that had about 7 people sitting on a peak that didn't appear to working too well...too crowded and too much time between sets...headed north Finally about 3pm found some waist high to thorax level waves coming through and paddled out for a look... It wasn't particularly memorable but there was enough push on the bigger sets for some outside to inside rides...it got mushy as the tide drained and then cleaned up a bit...wind died off completely and it all glassed off...surfed til about 7pm...there were some weird cross swells and refraction gumming up the works but the occassional wall was located and ridden to reasonable personal satisfaction... ~doc

3 comments:

Dub Resurrected said...

Been that way for a week now and soon to be to big, most likely. The classic Oregon mantra, it's either to big or to small (for most spots) It was 10 seconds most of the day though, just never quite hit 5 feet, maybe 4? How boust some 8 at 10. Doc you should know those NOAA guys always over compensate to keep their asses. Love the lurker drinking in the corner, nice work!

Anonymous said...

point coves offered nice wind chop shields. Outward tide offered some 4 footers w/ 3-4 wave sets.

Doc said...

Yah! I found the actual waves later in the day...my anger and bitterness has subsided until...tomorrow.