Wednesday, July 18, 2007
~photo courtesy of Gaz
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 6 SECONDS...PERIOD INCREASING W SWELL 3 FT AT8 SECONDS.
My daughter displaying her unique Parellel Stance Drop Knee Iron Cross style...on the 9'6" Iron Cross...she had better rides.
Local Report:
Wave of the day went to the 3rd guy (of 3) to hit the water this morning, a really clean "all shoulder high freak of the day, not to be seen again" ride that peeled perfectly for a good 125'. He went backside high under the curl stuck to the nose like a fly. Lucky bastard. The rest was all waist high for us over the next 21/2 hours... ~gaz
Late start, got in the water after noon. Drizzle didn't let up but the water was probably the warmest I've felt in Oregon. Small knee to waist peelers. After an hour in the water, the wind kicked up and everything turned ugly. Ended up finding a little protection and a fun right for about an hour after things got ugly. ~grave wisdom
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2 comments:
Good stuff Doc.
She has your 1 knee stance down, but I think she blew by you on the learning curve before the sun set.....
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