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Saturday, August 25, 2007
NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO W BY THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Funny how time and space shapes experience...
Yesterday, in the water...I was unsatisfied...
Both with wave quality and my own surfing...
Today, out of the water...the recollection is positive...
Remembering distinct rides and moments...
Paddling over cresting wind groomed peaks...
Dropping into a surprise left wall that opened up...
Sitting and waiting for a shadowed line on the horizon.
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1 comments:
Funny, same happens to me all the time.
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