NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Surfed today in some less than ideal waves...
Made the mistake of leaving the longboard home...
After making the mistake of bringing it Wednesday...
There were a few fun ones to be had...
But they were soft and backing off...
A little extra glide through the flats would have helped...
I surfed a peak all by myself for the most part...
With a pack of 15 plus sitting down a ways...
Their peak may have been better...
But I didn't feel like dealing with the crowd...
There was a trio of hooting boogie boarders on the inside...
But they were a minor auditory irritant...
Then suddenly a 5 pak of soft toppers paddled out...
It was like I was some kind of kook magnet...
Board noses a foot up in the air pushing water...
Legs spreadeagled and thrashing dragging water...
Lots of hooting, hollering and rad this and rad that...
They quickly drifted out of position...
Then the paddler came by, you all know the guy...
He paddles up and down the beach...
Always looking, spinning and trying for every ripple...
He was fine when he was a 100 yards down the beach...
But suddenly he saw me catch a wave...
And he was there, paddling up and sitting just off me...
I'm generally a pretty nice guy...
And these waves were certainly nothing worth jockeying for...
But I couldn't resist, I had to say something...
"Y'know, this peak is just as shitty as the one you just left..."
"If you're gonna stay here, I'll go over there..."
I said it with a smile, but I meant it...
He didn't smile back, but he did paddle away...
The paddler comes and the paddler goes.
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3 comments:
I'm a hooting kook paddler.
I have no chance.
great story. i'm paddler, lookin for peaks, xept i go. wouldn't paddle deeper than the guy alreday there rippin though, i know better than that. wate yer turn and always give a few.
your is one of the better blogs about the glide/
I guess "the paddler" didn't come with a peace offering like the one pictured? Then maybe all you would of just said was "pass the doucihie on the left hand side"
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