Monday, September 17, 2007

Backside Drops

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS...EXCEPT SOUTH OF CASCADE HEAD W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS EARLY.


Been surfing pretty much exclusively on the new 10' 6" and have had some outstanding sessions...
Making sections I wouldn't have had a chance on previously...
Something about getting in early and accelerating in trim will do that for you...
The waves have been glassy and fun to boot, in the 4 to 5 foot range with decent period...
The only drawback thus far is when trying to make a section unsuccessfully...
While locked in high on the face of a reeling wave...
A full volume, heavily glassed 10 foot plus surfboard hurts when it hits you...
And it has hit me a few times in closeouts...
I still have some sore spots from Friday's go out...
Although I am also getting more exercise with increased retrieval swims...
I keep trying to remind myself, "Straighten Out...Straighten Out" on those no exit waves...
Backside rides also have been an adventure...
No problem generally, aside from late take offs...
Watching that flat rocker spear into the trough always promps a deep breath...
And another swim to the inside...
Six foot swell hitting this week...
I wonder at what point I'll need to put on the leash?

5 comments:

Gaz said...

Sylas goes leash free all the time, not that means anything.

Doc said...

I would hazard I surfed leashless more than the other option this summer but...

While I don't mind pleasant swims in during playful summer surf...

It isn't as enjoyable during macking wintertime groundswell...

Especially if the board gets sucked out in a rip and you have to swim out to sea rather into shore...

writer said...

You will need a leash when you get fur and a flea collar...they are for dogs after all...
:)

ras said...

All I can picture is the scenes where Derek Hynd is flying down the line on one of those huge boards in the Kidman movies. One of those Frye boards would be great for our super long points in Nova Scotia. But with the exchange rate, shipping, customs fees, and 14% tax it's a bit out of reach. I'll just enjoy vicariously through you.

fojo said...

Hold on, baby, hold on!