Thursday, September 13, 2007

Fun Ones

~photo unknown

NW WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Got in a rare double session yesterday...
Last minute decision to head out early...
First look wasn't too impressive, but...
Low tide peaks were coming over...
A little better than was expected...
Soft head high right peaks...
That if you could make through...
Lined up on the inside...
For an occasional fast right wall...
Had to take care of business for a bit...
But back out by two o'clock...
Different beach and a different wave...
Softness replaced by down the line hardness...
Still head high but coming over now...
Still predominantly rights but an odd left too...
Early in and swing it quickly...
For long walling lefts into the shallows...
A couple solid bombs rang through...
Had to swim for my board a few times...
After getting clipped by an errant lip...

0 comments: