Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Oregon Surfers


~photo by john brewer

W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

I've long been hesitant to post this pic...not only because it isn't mine (and that's never stopped me before!)...but because it belongs to an original Oregon surfer who posted on Swaylocks never imagining that it would be reposted or garner the interest of anyone else.

In any case, it's a shot from 1965 at Oswald West aka Short Sands...and it represents to me what Oregon surfing is all about...granted, I'm still trying to figure that out...

I also have to echo what a friend stated recently (not to me specifically)...and out of context, but: All that I have met have been competent surfers for the most part. Some have paid dues in other locales. Some live at the coast now. Others did back then. What does it matter? I think for the most part we all have good intentions...

As a tribe, Surfers in Oregon have a few more obstacles put before them...macking short period swells...mind-bendingly cold water...nuclear powered winds...ragged, jagged rocks with no exit ramps...or gigantic, cobbled beaches (beaches?) with shinbone-snapping hellacious whitewash rushing up and over it...like any tribe, many want to intimidate or shame outsiders...even if they show traits in common with the resident tribe...and stay away from my sister!

Ahhhh!...it's not all that bad. Valley tribes produce many trade goods desired by coastal tribes even if they lack coastal wavecraft...thus, grudging acceptance can be earned by those willing to endure the sometimes harsh tests put forth by the coast's guardians...

2 comments:

Hd McDing said...

Doc----------PM me at sways. I'll set the record straight. Nice Blog. A little esoteric, bot otherwise nicly done. Hd McDing

Slim said...

Nicely put.