Friday, November 02, 2007

Kooky Summers


NW WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 8 TO 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
A few things I miss about summer:
  • Kooky cartop configurations of surfboards
  • Warm, sunny days on the beach
  • Girls in bikinis & summer dresses
  • Kooks with wetsuits on backwards
  • Long days with surf until 10pm
  • Drinking beer & surfing waist high waves
  • Kooks sitting backwards on their soft tops
  • Pushing my kids into little waves
  • Beach fires under starry skies
  • Dodging kooks on waves that don't matter
  • Backlit harmless windswell

A few things I like about fall & winter:

  • Fewer kooks to dodge on the inside
  • The end of prevailing north winds (not this past summer tho!)
  • Less fat people in bathing suits
  • Inability of kooks to get outside
  • Groundswell
  • Drinking beer when it's unsurfable
  • Buying a beginner's board at 1/2 the original cost
  • Seeing spots work that don't all summer
  • Storms spinning in the Gulf of Alaska
  • Helicopter rides for the inept
  • Black, meaty concrete slabs of surf

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Doc,

Did you surf today?

7.9 ft 13.8 s



your have one of the few sites that I can get an accurate view and opinion of the conditions.

thanks for your help.

-miles

Doc said...

No surf today...
Not that there were no waves...
Work and life...
Get in the way...

Doc

Ricardo said...

hey, thanks for taking a picture that i took and posting it online... hope you get a lot of credit for that....

and i feel ya bout surfing the summer time.... some good times, some bad

enjoi my picture

big rick said...

by the way, that picture was taken on the 528 on the way home from a decent session shoulder high and tought my friend micheala (ma-kee-la) how to surf... she actually rips for a first timer

and thats pretty big of its shoulder high on a dude thats 6'4" (for FL summer that is)

Dub said...

The kooks are still out at certain locals on certain conditions. This I frustratingly realized yesterday at a popular often kooked out local. Tapered chest to head high rights spinng off a cape, which were well suited for surfers who could surf. But a channel allowed dangerous beginners with longbaords to get out and in the way. Many times I had to yell at people as I was flying down the line only for the longboard toting begner to attempt pulling back and to be sucked over and dangerously in the way. At one point I dropped in and a guy was right in my bottom turn filming, yes filming! Not sure what, but I ran the poor bastard over and told him that he was in the worst possible spot. Also got burnt several times. Do people look. Sorry to rant here, but GD someones got to start regulating.