Saturday, November 24, 2007

Thankful


W WIND 10 TO 15 KT. S WIND 10 KT NEAR SHORE EARLY. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 17 SECONDS.

This was a difficult week for surfing...
Work was demanding...
Holiday stresses & demands...
East winds with swell...
And no way to escape...
Yesterday I finally got some...
Hit the central coast with high hopes...
And it certainly looked surfable...
But the east wind was hitting hard...
The tide was peaking...
And it was quickly getting crowded...
Checked another spot...
But it was flooded out...
And looked like a tough paddle...
Check another holy spot...
And the wind was howling...
I looked for some shelter and found it...
Heading north out of the wind tunnel...
The flags were slack north of Tillamook...
Even on the open beaches it was calm...
Parking up from Oregon's most popular cove...
I was surprised to find only a few cars...
And quickly headed in to find...
Fun, waist to chest high peaks coming through...
Paddled out to the south side...
Picked off a few lefts there...
Then moved to the empty middle peak...
Surfed it for hours...
Wave after wave after wave...
Easy paddles out...
And long lefts into the shallows.

2 comments:

Doughboy said...

Those are the kinds of days I live for, or, once did, really should be once again, as in the present tense. Well, you get it.

Doc said...

So surf...