Sunday, November 25, 2007

To Surf Or Not To Surf


N TO NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 14 SECONDS.

I wish that was the question…
Sadly, for me…
Not to surf is the answer…
And it is looking pretty solid today…

Yesterday looked pretty good too…
And, yes, I missed it then as well…
I did spy someone I know though…
At least I think it was him…
Sitting way outside at his spot…
Awaiting an approaching wall…

And a final congrats & cartoon…
For Chum at Sissyfish…
On the birth of his baby…
It may affect some DP’s…
But it’s pretty worth it…
I speak from experience…
As I’ve got 2 of them at home…
Well, they're bigger now…
But they were babies once…

6 comments:

Gaz said...

He was out there for hours! He owns that left and when he gets a right, he's going to own that too!

Anonymous said...

At least you didn't get to the beach on Sunday. I woke up early, drove to the coast and found perfect head and a half high lefts. Then I opened my trunk and realized I left my wetsuit in the garage. My buddy laughed and went surfing for 3 hours while I watched on the beach.

Doc said...

I had a almost similar experience on Friday...

I suited up...went to pull my zip across my chest and snap! the little gripper deal broke off...

I tried and tried to move it but couldn't...I fanlly enlisted the assistance of another surfer and got it zipped up...

Getting out of the suit was another adventure altogether.

J.P. said...

Ha! Classic. Lucky for me dawn patrols in Leucadia start at 9 am.

Chum said...

Thanks, Doc! Looks like I missed some thumping, dumping waves Saturday. Oh well... Spring's on the way. :)

Doc said...

Spring is pretty fucking far away Chum...

Surf while the baby grows.