Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Blanks


N WIND 15 KT...BUT NE 10 KT NEAR SHORE. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Blanks for Speelyei's future board.
Arrived early this AM to find the swell a little crossed up...
A couple guys out but no real waves to speak of...
Watched some spinning cylinders just off the cobbles...
But too weird and warbly and close in to the rocks...
As both surfers proned in after a session of few waves...
I decided to check a cove that I thought might hold promise...
Walked in with my smaller board but again, not so hot...
There were head high waves, but they were closing out on the bar...
I thought to myself "The 10' 6" would be the better board"...
Watched for a bit as the sun rose behind the south cape...
Then opted to head into work and check it again later...
Got a call that the central coast was no great shakes...
And they were headed north to the same cove from the morning walk...
Headed down myself at about 2 in the afternoon...
And hiked in, with the 10' 6", and high hopes...
The waves were about the same but there were a few coming through...
There were peaks that quickly spun off left and right...
Detonating in a cylindrical implosion on a shallow bar...
I suited up, and knelt to attach my skeg...
Then realized I was missing the screw...
I had a smaller Frye flex fin so I opted for that...
Then decided to go with the side bites since it was kinda hollow...
But I forgot my fucking hex wrench...
So, 10+ feet of board and 9 inches of rudder it was...
Getting out was a breeze, stand in waist deep water...
Wait for the wave to close out and come over as a whole...
Jump over and paddle quickly to the outside, that was it...
Paddled into the first few and ejected quickly to aviod the close out...
After a bit a meaty right showed and I moved into position...
As the wave heaved I swung it around...
Only to see a wide eyed kook on my line...
Which forced me to crank it alot harder off the bottom...
That's when the flex fin failed me...
I slid ass, but at least I didn't kill him...
I caught a buch of waves, but paid the price...
I got caught in top to bottom close outs more than once...
I got clocked by the board several times...
And it's alot of surfboard...
Right now, I have a lump on the head...
A bruised calf...
And a swollen elbow...
Good times.

3 comments:

Rider said...

"skeg"?
WTF?
Fin screws and fins are for wusses...
I lost my screw recently, seaweed works well but I still prefer an old matchbook cover-especially in this day of 50.00 fins.
I have a 10'9" Russo I am riding with a 7 inch HP Harbour fin, talk about a handful...but a 10 inch HP in my 9'6"...makes sense, no?

Doc said...

Sheesh Rider...

skeg –noun
1. a projection supporting a rudder at its lower end, located abaft a sternpost or rudderpost.
2. an extension of the keel of a small craft, designed to improve steering.

Not to be congused with "skag"...slang for heroin, the big H, horse...

I would not have wanted to go finless yesterday

Rider said...

Still say you are showing your age...
:)
Havent had shit down here for two days, N wind...southerly is out as the swell is too small to wrap...crap.