21 hours ago
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 17 SECONDS.
I wouldn't be surprised if I rode this very swell line...
Albeit a hundred miles north or so...
But the time frame is absolutely right...
And the peaks were looking very similar...
With some fun overhead fat ones...
The workday was way too long...
But late afternoon into early evening...
Yielded several solid lined up lefts...
The lineup was pretty much empty...
With only five guys or so and well spread out...
I shared a big outside peak with one other...
Waiting for the set waves to show...
Super fun, big peaks held up by the offshores...
Connecting on a couple into the inside...
Where I sacrificed body and board...
To the inside bowl and inevitable close out...
Headed in after the sun set...
After dodging a couple outside sets...
And picking off a closer all the way to the sand...
Of course, I was covered in sand...
As I was sent into a liquid sand blaster...
Trying to get past the shorebreak...
Unsuccessfully.
Hoping for more tomorrow!
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2 comments:
Surfed some great waves away from the crowd today too but I was out of the water by 3:30, beat up and tired.........
You two should, take a nice booze-nap and get back out there!
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