Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

~photo by Servais


S WIND 35 TO 45 KT. COMBINED SEAS 15 TO 17 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS.

To the mind that is still, the ocean surrenders.
If not in the barrel, where else to find it?
All is revealed in each droplet of the lip.
To best achieve tranquility, fade deep.
Better to practice than to talk.
Not the board, the emptiness within the wave.
Each journey begins with a single stroke.
The deeper you go, the quieter you become.
Life is like paddling into a wave that has no exit.
There is no then, no later, and no now. Just go.
When you are there, there is no there there.
A perfect wave has no rider.