UPDATED FORECAST 8-17
-
What appeared as a rather insignificant south swell on the models a week
or so back turned into a nice size south over the weekend, which is
continuing ...
10 hours ago
Showing posts with label zen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label zen. Show all posts
Friday, July 03, 2009
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I went and listened to Jaimal Yogis read excerpts from his book "Saltwater Buddha"...
As I mentioned I read the book and enjoyed it...
I also liked listening to another surfer's take on the act...
Listening without commenting or interupting or adding...
As you would in a typical interaction with another surfer...
A comment from the previous post asked for an honest review of the book...
And to be completely honest I can only say I enjoyed the book...
It's reading did not involve any earth shattering revelations for me...
Nor do I expect that that was Yogis' intent or expectation...
Rather, the book is a series of small tales of his journey in life...
Some tales address surfing, some zen, some just daily struggles & successes...
Yogis' karmic progression from aspiring Buddhist monk...
To Ocean Beach surf bum (his words)...
His growing recognition of the nature of waves, surf & zen...
The conflicts, self doubt and overcoming fear...
Were the parts of the book I enjoyed the most perhaps...
His journey, as are all of our journeys, was a different path than mine...
But no less or more valid, compelling, interesting or boring...
Finding one's way in the world and to have surfing as part of it...
Is as much a gift as it is a curse...
Depending on which way the wind is blowing...
Whether a storm is raging near or far from home...
Whether you can let a perfect wave pass...
Or give it to another without rancor or regret...
If you can accept imperfection as perfection...
In your life as much as in your surfing...
I don't know if this qualifies as a review...
Here's an excerpt from "Saltwater Buddha" that Jaimal read from:
So I tried to let my judgments dissolve. For the rest
of the evening, as the leathered man and I exchanged
waves, I tried to be a five-year-old in my mother’s garden
with a fairy-catching net. And maybe it was the
lighting, or the power of suggestion, or the adrenaline
that Third Bay catalyzed. But for brief moments that
evening, it almost seemed like each thing around
me—not just the clouds, but the stones, the trees, the
wind—was a living organism.
“You have to ask permission when you come in
here,” the man said, paddling back toward me.
“Some people don’t. They get washed up on the
rocks.”
Bobbing on the fingertips of Kanaloa, his words
carried some gravitas.
I asked permission.
Saturday, January 12, 2008
SW WIND 15 TO 20 WITH LOCAL GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT...SUBSIDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 15 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
Wednesday, January 09, 2008
S WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT... BECOMING SE 25 TO 30 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. COMBINED SEAS 22 TO 24 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 14 SECONDS.
Rain makes a sea.
A book cannot teach surfing.
Any wave in a lull will do.
Wind, potential; fulfillment, waves.
By riding the waves, you harvest the storm.
To exit you must enter.
The mind sees, the heart hears, the soul feels.
A raging sea today, tomorrow only ripples.
The drop is half the battle.
Sad, because there no waves; I met a man who did not surf.
Simplify; black wetsuit, white board.
A book cannot teach surfing.
Any wave in a lull will do.
Wind, potential; fulfillment, waves.
By riding the waves, you harvest the storm.
To exit you must enter.
The mind sees, the heart hears, the soul feels.
A raging sea today, tomorrow only ripples.
The drop is half the battle.
Sad, because there no waves; I met a man who did not surf.
Simplify; black wetsuit, white board.
Tuesday, January 08, 2008
~photo via toneman
W WIND 20 TO 30 KT...EASING TO 15 TO 25 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. COMBINED SEAS 16 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 11 SECONDS.
Don't catch waves to please God.
The thankful surfer bears an empty harvest.
While surfers hassle, waves pass by.
If you find the shoulder, you’ve lost the tube.
The puddle an ocean, a ripple a wave to the ant.
Enjoy the barrel, but keep one end open.
If you take every wave, who is your friend?
A poor wave for one is perfection to another.
Where you are not, the surf is perfect.
Same wave, different day.
The thankful surfer bears an empty harvest.
While surfers hassle, waves pass by.
If you find the shoulder, you’ve lost the tube.
The puddle an ocean, a ripple a wave to the ant.
Enjoy the barrel, but keep one end open.
If you take every wave, who is your friend?
A poor wave for one is perfection to another.
Where you are not, the surf is perfect.
Same wave, different day.
Monday, January 07, 2008
~photo by Servais
S WIND 35 TO 45 KT. COMBINED SEAS 15 TO 17 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS.
To the mind that is still, the ocean surrenders.
If not in the barrel, where else to find it?
All is revealed in each droplet of the lip.
To best achieve tranquility, fade deep.
Better to practice than to talk.
Not the board, the emptiness within the wave.
Each journey begins with a single stroke.
The deeper you go, the quieter you become.
Life is like paddling into a wave that has no exit.
There is no then, no later, and no now. Just go.
When you are there, there is no there there.
A perfect wave has no rider.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
