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Saturday, January 12, 2008

Surphilo

Posted by Wave Farmer at 12:51 PM


SW WIND 15 TO 20 WITH LOCAL GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT...SUBSIDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 15 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
No wind, no waves.
When a finger points at the wave, the kook looks at the finger.
Dream a thousand waves, wake and surf but one.
One wave scatters much grief.
The surfer likes their own wave best.
Each day as a surfer is worth a thousand as not.
The wave unfolds and is gone forever.

 

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3 comments:

MelondraBee said...

I think I know what you mean. As I drove home today after surfing (we had a great swell) I felt very fortunate, as if the people in the cars around me had really missed out on something.

Surfing is so powerful. The rush of dropping in - for me- can only be compared to sex.

6:16 PM  
Gaz said...

Hey !! It's been 15 minutes since the win....... no Charger update yet?

1:39 PM  
Anonymous said...

Surfing CA: A great book with some great pics. Nice.

8:55 AM  

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