Thursday, January 10, 2008

Esoteric Bullshit...

SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. LOCAL GUSTS TO 35 KT EARLY. WIND WAVES 6 FT. W SWELL 14 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

I guess I'll take a break from all the esoteric bullshit I've been posting the last few days...
Not that I have any particular issue with esoteric bullshit...
Hell, surfing and talk of surfing is, largely, esoteric bullshit...
Now that I've mentioned "esoteric bullshit", 3...no 4...times in the first 4 sentences...
I'll get down to the business of the actual post, esoteric bullshit aside...

I pulled up to the edge of the Pacific this afternoon and saw something I haven't really seen before...
The swell was supposedly running 14 foot and I saw the sideways rain, so I knew it was windy...
In any case, conditions weren't looking to be particularly clean or even ridable...
But, the waves were only head high and there were a couple guys out in the cove...
A look throught the binocs showed another couple out down south along the cobbles...
Again, it wasn't looking to hot and I did not scramble out of the car to suit up...
As I watched I saw that which I had never seen at this spot, nor many other Oregon breaks...
As the black wetsuited form picked his way down the cobbles I wondered what he was riding...
Closer inspection through magnifying lenses revealed no vehicle aside from Churchills...
"Bodysurfing...wtf?" was my initial thought and this from a former dedicated practitioner...
I have considered bodysurfing in Oregon and have on a couple abnormaly warm summer days...
But the very thought of imitating a pinniped on Carcharodon carcharias' turf in winter always seemed foolhardy at best...
As I watched the neoprene clad fellow wallow into the water I wondered if he had any skills...
He didn't, he merely lolled in the messy waves off the rocks...
A bony, temptingly meaty morsel with no speed to evade an apex predator...
I guess it's his right to put himself in harm's way, but I can't help but wonder why...

5 comments:

nm said...

I was rather liking the introspec...er esoteric bullshit

Anonymous said...

I did like the pictures.

Anonymous said...

Thought you were on a vision quest or something?

Bodysurfing, farking wacked. Suprised he didnt get a rock to the head!

Now get on with the drama as there's pleanty going on right now.

dub-

Overhead Movies said...

Going over the falls into cobbles in 50 degree, shark infested water sounds like no fun.

Hd McDing said...

No esoteric BS? Bummer!