Wednesday, January 09, 2008

Ponder


S WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT... BECOMING SE 25 TO 30 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. COMBINED SEAS 22 TO 24 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 14 SECONDS.
Rain makes a sea.
A book cannot teach surfing.
Any wave in a lull will do.
Wind, potential; fulfillment, waves.
By riding the waves, you harvest the storm.
To exit you must enter.
The mind sees, the heart hears, the soul feels.
A raging sea today, tomorrow only ripples.
The drop is half the battle.
Sad, because there no waves; I met a man who did not surf.
Simplify; black wetsuit, white board.

3 comments:

Gaz said...

You're scaring me Doc...... ;-)

Anonymous said...

Are you high again?

Anonymous said...

You mean rip and slash, right?