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Showing posts with label review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label review. Show all posts
Friday, July 03, 2009
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I went and listened to Jaimal Yogis read excerpts from his book "Saltwater Buddha"...
As I mentioned I read the book and enjoyed it...
I also liked listening to another surfer's take on the act...
Listening without commenting or interupting or adding...
As you would in a typical interaction with another surfer...
A comment from the previous post asked for an honest review of the book...
And to be completely honest I can only say I enjoyed the book...
It's reading did not involve any earth shattering revelations for me...
Nor do I expect that that was Yogis' intent or expectation...
Rather, the book is a series of small tales of his journey in life...
Some tales address surfing, some zen, some just daily struggles & successes...
Yogis' karmic progression from aspiring Buddhist monk...
To Ocean Beach surf bum (his words)...
His growing recognition of the nature of waves, surf & zen...
The conflicts, self doubt and overcoming fear...
Were the parts of the book I enjoyed the most perhaps...
His journey, as are all of our journeys, was a different path than mine...
But no less or more valid, compelling, interesting or boring...
Finding one's way in the world and to have surfing as part of it...
Is as much a gift as it is a curse...
Depending on which way the wind is blowing...
Whether a storm is raging near or far from home...
Whether you can let a perfect wave pass...
Or give it to another without rancor or regret...
If you can accept imperfection as perfection...
In your life as much as in your surfing...
I don't know if this qualifies as a review...
Here's an excerpt from "Saltwater Buddha" that Jaimal read from:
So I tried to let my judgments dissolve. For the rest
of the evening, as the leathered man and I exchanged
waves, I tried to be a five-year-old in my mother’s garden
with a fairy-catching net. And maybe it was the
lighting, or the power of suggestion, or the adrenaline
that Third Bay catalyzed. But for brief moments that
evening, it almost seemed like each thing around
me—not just the clouds, but the stones, the trees, the
wind—was a living organism.
“You have to ask permission when you come in
here,” the man said, paddling back toward me.
“Some people don’t. They get washed up on the
rocks.”
Bobbing on the fingertips of Kanaloa, his words
carried some gravitas.
I asked permission.
Friday, April 03, 2009
NW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. COMBINED SEAS 17 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 11 SECONDS.
I wanted to like it...
But think that overall the flotsam distracted from the point...
I don't want to harp on what I see as the negatives...
I think Dan Malloy is a skilled surfer...
As a narrator, a bit of a wipe out...
The inflection should at least approach...
The variation of the surf itself...
Alex Knost in all of his hipster charm...
I can appreciate what he does on a surfboard...
He's unquestionably got a unique style...
But the rockstar/artist persona...
Better left on the cutting room floor...
The comedy skit? Yawn...
I guess if those are the main faults I find...
Then I can't really complain...
More Michel Junod, less AK...
The clip of Junod crosstepping...
Was perhaps the best 8 seconds of the film...
And his LB mastery should have got more time...
But he doesn't do spins, backward takeoffs...
And other trick maneuvers so no...
I thought Joel Tudor's take...
Could be the basis for a film in it's own right...
Alaia surfing is pretty cool...
But seemed to take over the film...
Dave Rastovich, Dane Reynolds & the rest...
Some good footage to be sure...
But for me the overall effect was subpar...
Not a bad film...
But the Present just didn't seem capture...
What it was professed to be seeking.
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