Sunday, February 24, 2008
NE WIND 10 KT...BACKING TO NW. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
"The biggest buzz I ever had in surfing was the early '90s when I went back to the big ones," he recalls. "I mean the 11-footers. The same thing happened to Duke [Kahanamoku] when Tom Blake reintroduced him to the 16-foot olos back in the '30s. I was riding through one break, through the channel and into the next break." ~from Surfline
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2 comments:
I remember riding 6" to 1' peelers on a 10'6" log at Campus Point in summertime. No one out, 50 yard plus rides - serious long-range cruising. And when you can connect through a channel to the next break, it's even better...
What looked to be a great welcome home, ended up being a disappointment. Cold shifty and junky. Shoulda stayed home saved some gas $, got some chores done, but time is the essence right now. Been extremely spoiled but oh well, surf in Oregon right?
While catching up I was stoked to see you posted that Kew rewrite.
Lets hope March goes off because come early April I'll be surfing the real El Nino.
Surf
Dub-
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