.jpg)
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
W WIND 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Before leaving the coast yesterday...
I swung by for a quick look...
It was late afternoon...
And I knew I didn't have time for a surf...
But I like to watch too...
The surf was not that great...
The brown algae bloom...
Though less than previous days...
Was still in brown, frothy evidence...
A couple guys were out padding in it nonetheless...
Further down the rocks...
Stood a solo black clad figure...
Contemplating empty warbly reelers...
That peeled down the line...
Solidly overhead and occasionally hollow...
He made the quick paddle out unscathed...
Tried to scratch into the shoulder of a couple...
Unsuccessfully, which made me wonder if he was up to it...
The answer came on the next wave...
It was the first wave of the biggest set I'd seen that day...
He paddled to get in, struggling hard...
He made the drop, but blew the bottom turn...
I watched as the board flashed briefly in the froth...
Then watched as each successive wave in a 12 wave set...
Obliterated him...
I looked for a black spec, but couldn't find him...
Just as I was starting to worry...
I spied him sitting on the cobbles...
Worked over and washed in...
Don't know if he was an able surfer...
Who got caught and paid the price...
Or someone who was in over their head...
And should never have paddled out that day.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
2 comments:
What's worse a beat down from the locs or a beat down from the point? Either way there's a chance of getting beat down no matter how hard you charge.
Dub-
That's a lot of waves to take on the head. Have you handled my rack yet?
Post a Comment